Migration

Hey people

Things have been a little quiet here, I know.

No reasons, no excuses.  Just sommer (Just because for those non Afrikaans speakers)

The good news is I'm writing fairly regularly over at Surfforecaster, so go have a look over there for some insights into surfing.

We've migrated the Time Between Waves blog over there, with a slightly different flavour, but not so much that you'd notice.  It's an awesome platform and has great potential, so we're a little exicted.

We may be upping sticks and moving again sometime soon, but will keep you up to date.

Thanks for following us in the meantime and we hope to keep your attention over there too.

Back for now

So, it's been quite a while since I was last here.

I dunno, no excuses really, other than I just couldn't get into it.  I'd lost some stoke along the way and couldn't face carrying on whining about how dismal things have been mostly.  There have been some epic sessions in between, but I just never managed to sit down and put it up.

I was even too embarassed to log in and check the activity here.  There's just a hint of narcissicism there.  Anyway...

So much to my surprise, when I got over my shame and plucked up the courage, I saw that this little blog has actually been doing better than ever in my absence, with one particular post really picking up the slack.  With the benefit of perspective, I also noticed how most of the recent posts were whinges, so I was vindicated in my reluctance to carry on with that trend.

Which post you ask?  Well, it doesn't need any extra attention.  But, it's a shitty one for sure.  And it seems that a lot of users of the web have a filthy mind.

Anyway, without whining here's a little tale for your amusement.

Day before: stir up mate for dawnie

Night before: pack gear into car, set alarm for 4:15

4:15: alarm goes off, make coffee, hit road

5:20: arrive in parking lot, suit up, walk down beach.

6:00: hit the water.  FM, this side of the peninsula is cold.

6:02: take set on head

6:07: find a peak and wait

6:15: miss a cooker.  just not feeling that confident

6:25: Go over the falls

6:35: jeez, just close outs

6:45: finally, a decent peaky set

6:46: Go over the falls, surface minus a fin

6:47: back on beach, watch waves for a while

7:00: Its really starting to switch on now

7:05: start walk of shame  

Some monday gees

Monday started badly.  And then I saw a Dane Reynold's clip.  And then I saw this.

Now, I don't care anymore.

Love the backing track as well.

Wetting go

After flat spells, calling it wrong, committing to other shit, injuries, sickness, taking time to write long lists of excuses and generally just being kak, I've finally managed to get some wave time in.

A session last night, and a dawnie this morning.  Neither were grea by any shakes, but I'm just so glad to get wet again.

It's been written about before.  Here and other places.  Stoke comes down to attitude.  And the more wound up you get, the less stoked you get.  That's been my problem. 

So, yesterday, I stopped caring and paddled out at this local reef.  It was cross/onshore, some waves folding over themselves, other tempting you then fading.  In a word - messy.  And I had fun.  Just skipping across the beach, the crunch of the sand and the weight of the board under my arm felt great.  I went in with zero expectations.  I actually surprised myself in surfing quite well despite and extended semi-absence and poor current form.

This morning I opted for a beachy.  It was fat and sectiony.  I had a few shit waves.  I called it short.  I didn't care.  I had fun.  Not even getting stuck in traffic could kill my vibe.

Here's to letting go.

See you next week.

More Neckbeard

About halfway there and things are starting to look pretty miff:

Remember to swing past my mospace and throw in a few pennies. http://mobro.co/neckbeard

a whinge

Because I just need to get it off my shrunken chest

So, I these days, I often have conversations that go like this:

Other person: So what do you do?

Me: Well, I mostly write bullshit for surf magazines.

OP: Wow! So, you obviously surf?

Me: Actually I used to.  These days I just seem to drive around and sulk.

So yesterday was one such day.  I had a lot to do, so opted for the dawnie.  I was on the road before the sun tipped the horizon.  I had a busy day ahead, so I wanted to get a surf in and set myself up for a day at the desk.

And my gear box sounds like a trapped leopard with a cold, so I wasn't going to go far.  But that's another whinge, which if you get close enough to me, I'll drench you with that particular whinge.  So,  a quick tour of the nearby spots.

Too small for Off the Wall

Too shallow for Sollies

Too scared/sensible to surf 2nd reef Queens alone.

Too fucken over it bother with whatever Glen my have had.

To my desk to sulk.

"Get over it, asshole"

Re-enter the Neckbeard

Last year, I made promises of neckbearding my way through Movember.  Then, I had important meetings and stuff and I caved.

I'm sorry.

I broke my promise.  To you.

To Dane.

And to my chin and throat.

Dane: can't even bare to look at me right now.

This year, I will be stronger.  I took my first shave of the month last night, and results are already hideous.  Then I immediately started remembering all the important engagments I have coming up.  Oh, balls.

Fuck it.  It's all for a good cause.  I also watched a talk by the founding father last night. check it:

So with the spirit bristling through my neck and under-chin, I'm going to be firm this year.  I'll keep you up to date here, and on my mo space:

http://mobro.co/neckbeard

In the meantime, here's a sneak peak.

Happy mo-ing to all movember participants.  I'll be seeing you all looking dapper.