Perfect Fridays - also making a much needed come back

'Y' for 'Yowzers, look at that'

We've seen this wave before here on Perfect Fridays and it is magificant.  Look at that.  It's school workbook sketch perfect.  And the way the colours in the bowl make such neat, defined lines lend to it being the work of a human hand, not so much a natural phenonemon.

But, then again, consider the guy in the foreground.  Why is he not riding it?  Or anybody else?  We could say that such a wave deserves to go un-surfed...but, fuck that!  Someone should be getting the best barrel of their life on that thing.  But then again, look deeper.

That wave is not small.  And it's fast.  Look at the bend in it.  It's going to zip through that next section with pace, and you'll have to pick a perfect line to avoid being sucked over as well.  Because, you know it's going to drain just by looking at the beast.

And so, maybe, for our own sakes, we can just leave this one un-surfed.  But, as you may know, it's an awful thing to watch unreal waves go by as you sit and cry on the beach.

It's the weekend.  See you on the beach.

A much neglected blog

There's a joke about why a dog is better than a girlfriend:  Lock both in your car boot and see which one is happier to see you when you get back in  two hours time.

Well, I have to say, my girlfriend is better than this blog.  I've been on two surf trips since I last wrote, and my lady was happy to see me return on both occasions.  This blog appears abjectly indifferent.

If you've been checking in and hoping for updates, thank you for your patience.  More content coming up.

My excuse is the standard blog failure one, and strangely similar to the not surfing one:  Yeah, I've been busy.  Although I have, neither is an excuse, just a display of your priorities.  And if you dont want to write, that's fine. (I do, by the way)   And if you don't want to surf, that's fine, too.

Actually, no it's not.

So, i've got a lot that that I could tell you about the last month and a bit.

Strangely, my last post is kind of a bite-sized version of the interim.  I've had two very different surf trips.  One was to the Maldives: warm water, white sand, coral reefs, planes, boats and everything taken care of.  Your ideal holiday, really.  The other was up our desolate, beautifual west coast: thick rubber, deadly slabs, beachies, 4x4s and everything to be planned and excecuted by myself.  It was for work, technically.  Both were awesome in their own way.

I've promised the details of these excursions to some magazines, so wont do too much of them here.  Sorry, to tease like that.

But, the long absence has also given some time for reflection.  It was a winter that wasn't.  I've got a certain post surf tradition for those epic stormy days that I was going to describe in graphic detail.  And I cant remember doing it once this winter.  Dammit.  But, there's still some swell around, so I can't complain too much.

But, as always, I'm looking forward to summer.  The missions are being planned.  The skin is coming out.  And hot chicks seem to be arriving by the plane load.

I've got a few summer projects lined up.  So, that should be entertaining at least. 

Here are some recent pictures.  No captions or explanations.  But, i'm sure you can create something good for yourselves.