Back for now

So, it's been quite a while since I was last here.

I dunno, no excuses really, other than I just couldn't get into it.  I'd lost some stoke along the way and couldn't face carrying on whining about how dismal things have been mostly.  There have been some epic sessions in between, but I just never managed to sit down and put it up.

I was even too embarassed to log in and check the activity here.  There's just a hint of narcissicism there.  Anyway...

So much to my surprise, when I got over my shame and plucked up the courage, I saw that this little blog has actually been doing better than ever in my absence, with one particular post really picking up the slack.  With the benefit of perspective, I also noticed how most of the recent posts were whinges, so I was vindicated in my reluctance to carry on with that trend.

Which post you ask?  Well, it doesn't need any extra attention.  But, it's a shitty one for sure.  And it seems that a lot of users of the web have a filthy mind.

Anyway, without whining here's a little tale for your amusement.

Day before: stir up mate for dawnie

Night before: pack gear into car, set alarm for 4:15

4:15: alarm goes off, make coffee, hit road

5:20: arrive in parking lot, suit up, walk down beach.

6:00: hit the water.  FM, this side of the peninsula is cold.

6:02: take set on head

6:07: find a peak and wait

6:15: miss a cooker.  just not feeling that confident

6:25: Go over the falls

6:35: jeez, just close outs

6:45: finally, a decent peaky set

6:46: Go over the falls, surface minus a fin

6:47: back on beach, watch waves for a while

7:00: Its really starting to switch on now

7:05: start walk of shame  

Some monday gees

Monday started badly.  And then I saw a Dane Reynold's clip.  And then I saw this.

Now, I don't care anymore.

Love the backing track as well.

Wetting go

After flat spells, calling it wrong, committing to other shit, injuries, sickness, taking time to write long lists of excuses and generally just being kak, I've finally managed to get some wave time in.

A session last night, and a dawnie this morning.  Neither were grea by any shakes, but I'm just so glad to get wet again.

It's been written about before.  Here and other places.  Stoke comes down to attitude.  And the more wound up you get, the less stoked you get.  That's been my problem. 

So, yesterday, I stopped caring and paddled out at this local reef.  It was cross/onshore, some waves folding over themselves, other tempting you then fading.  In a word - messy.  And I had fun.  Just skipping across the beach, the crunch of the sand and the weight of the board under my arm felt great.  I went in with zero expectations.  I actually surprised myself in surfing quite well despite and extended semi-absence and poor current form.

This morning I opted for a beachy.  It was fat and sectiony.  I had a few shit waves.  I called it short.  I didn't care.  I had fun.  Not even getting stuck in traffic could kill my vibe.

Here's to letting go.

See you next week.

More Neckbeard

About halfway there and things are starting to look pretty miff:

Remember to swing past my mospace and throw in a few pennies. http://mobro.co/neckbeard

a whinge

Because I just need to get it off my shrunken chest

So, I these days, I often have conversations that go like this:

Other person: So what do you do?

Me: Well, I mostly write bullshit for surf magazines.

OP: Wow! So, you obviously surf?

Me: Actually I used to.  These days I just seem to drive around and sulk.

So yesterday was one such day.  I had a lot to do, so opted for the dawnie.  I was on the road before the sun tipped the horizon.  I had a busy day ahead, so I wanted to get a surf in and set myself up for a day at the desk.

And my gear box sounds like a trapped leopard with a cold, so I wasn't going to go far.  But that's another whinge, which if you get close enough to me, I'll drench you with that particular whinge.  So,  a quick tour of the nearby spots.

Too small for Off the Wall

Too shallow for Sollies

Too scared/sensible to surf 2nd reef Queens alone.

Too fucken over it bother with whatever Glen my have had.

To my desk to sulk.

"Get over it, asshole"

Re-enter the Neckbeard

Last year, I made promises of neckbearding my way through Movember.  Then, I had important meetings and stuff and I caved.

I'm sorry.

I broke my promise.  To you.

To Dane.

And to my chin and throat.

Dane: can't even bare to look at me right now.

This year, I will be stronger.  I took my first shave of the month last night, and results are already hideous.  Then I immediately started remembering all the important engagments I have coming up.  Oh, balls.

Fuck it.  It's all for a good cause.  I also watched a talk by the founding father last night. check it:

So with the spirit bristling through my neck and under-chin, I'm going to be firm this year.  I'll keep you up to date here, and on my mo space:

http://mobro.co/neckbeard

In the meantime, here's a sneak peak.

Happy mo-ing to all movember participants.  I'll be seeing you all looking dapper.

Tell him he's dreamin...

So, I finally scored.  Not waves mind you.  oh, no, no, sir.  Even if those did come my way, I wouldn't know what to do with them.

I scored a neat little addition to my quiver.

So while battling a cold, I need to cancel some weekend geesness, the girlfriend and I decided to do some DIY round the flat.  So, on Sunday we cruised off to the nursery to get some plants and stuff.  (You should see my drip irrigation system! quite chuffed)

We drove past Milnerton flea market, and made an unplanned handbrake turn into the parking lot.  Wow - this place is a gold mine for kitsch and shit.  To all my friends - don't expect anything but for all your birthdays for years to come.  There's some pretty good stuff in there if you know what to look for too, I'm sure. 

There's plenty of stolen stuff as well.  Like the guy selling beer glasses - c'mon... you know those have been lifted from a nearby pub.  And all the guys selling loose tools - c'maaaan... you know some handyman's appy has lifted them, or some guys cherished garage has been burgled for it.  So, don't be a fool when you're in there, but you can score some amazing goods.

So, I wasn't 2 minutes into it when my eye fell on a familar parabolic lines - you know how a surfer can spot a board nestled in someone's back seat, or spy a wave on a poster from the other side of street. 

There it was.  Not a surfboard, but a kneeboard.  Hmmm... I strolled over, had a look, mulled over it and asked the dude, "How much?"

"R200" To overseas readers, that about $22.  I stifled my laughter, thinking I should beat him down to R150 just out of principle.  It's a flea market - you have to haggle.  Just like Life of Brian.  I flip it over, looking for creases and dings, but can't find much.  The guy senses my faux wariness, and comes down to meet me. "Or R150."  Done, and just like that, I've got a new toy - for about a 10th of what it should cost.

5'8" x 23 1/2" Glen D'arcy Original.  Worth the price for the logo alone.

Summer comes, and I have a new sled.  I reckon I'll go out with fins once, and then give up and start riding the thing stand up.  It should be a blast.  Other potentials are down the line barrel shots with a gopro headcam.  or just mixing things up on a fun day at the beach.

Then we went to nursery and bought some plants and shit. You should see my drip line!