First Time

Hey

This is a blog about surfing. Its about the stoke of it. Its a journey, like surfing itself. And as we all have dreams about where it may take us, it never does end up there, but somewhere else we never imagined. So, lets see if this leads to far-flung corners of the globe with world class waves, or just a dusty corner in the garage, behind stiff, perished wetsuits and old, brittle boards.

I will write about my own experiences mostly. I will also happliy post others writing if it fits the vibe. I will put up photos, and for this I need your help. Please, send me anything surf related. The visual aspect of this is important. Surfing is a beautiful sport, and words can only do it so much justice, and then, only if they're very good. Pictures, and many thousands of words as they may be, are what really takes us from the office, or lounge, and puts us in the water.

I call it time between waves, because, well, for some us, that's what life is. I wanted to call it the lull: just time between waves, but its already someone elses political blog - dormant pretty much since Obama won the election. I couldn't work out if it was pro/anti the president who grew up in Indo and Hawaii. Not that it matters.

Do you surf? Yes, no, sometimes, used to, tried it once, whatever. Pull in here during those moments when you've got nothing else going on and I'll try send some stoke your way. Hopefully, it will get you in the water. And so then this blog will be what it's called: time between waves.