Thursday, January 24, 2013

Back for now

So, it's been quite a while since I was last here.

I dunno, no excuses really, other than I just couldn't get into it.  I'd lost some stoke along the way and couldn't face carrying on whining about how dismal things have been mostly.  There have been some epic sessions in between, but I just never managed to sit down and put it up.

I was even too embarassed to log in and check the activity here.  There's just a hint of narcissicism there.  Anyway...

So much to my surprise, when I got over my shame and plucked up the courage, I saw that this little blog has actually been doing better than ever in my absence, with one particular post really picking up the slack.  With the benefit of perspective, I also noticed how most of the recent posts were whinges, so I was vindicated in my reluctance to carry on with that trend.

Which post you ask?  Well, it doesn't need any extra attention.  But, it's a shitty one for sure.  And it seems that a lot of users of the web have a filthy mind.

Anyway, without whining here's a little tale for your amusement.

Day before: stir up mate for dawnie

Night before: pack gear into car, set alarm for 4:15

4:15: alarm goes off, make coffee, hit road

5:20: arrive in parking lot, suit up, walk down beach.

6:00: hit the water.  FM, this side of the peninsula is cold.

6:02: take set on head

6:07: find a peak and wait

6:15: miss a cooker.  just not feeling that confident

6:25: Go over the falls

6:35: jeez, just close outs

6:45: finally, a decent peaky set

6:46: Go over the falls, surface minus a fin

6:47: back on beach, watch waves for a while

7:00: Its really starting to switch on now

7:05: start walk of shame  

1 comment:

  1. We can blame your absence on the christmas carnage, summer loving period of the year. I bet you been working on your tan and probably sinking a couple beers as well.
    Nothing worse than doing the walk of shame, especially if the walk is a long one.....