I not sure why, but I haven't been in the water nearly as much as I should have been. I could blame it on a series of skunkings and equipment failures, but I don't know... I just haven't been feeling the stoke that much recently. My waistline shows it too.
But, I can remember watching a cricket match a while back and the commentators were discussing a particular batsmen who hadn't performed to well recently. Various reasons were thrown around, before one pointed out that 'You're only one good innings away from finding form.' And that's what happened to me yesterday.
Sure, I had some pretty good waves on friday. But, my rustiness was detracting from my experience. Then, I spent the most of the rest of the weekend socialising. It was one of those weekends. I had 3 birthday parties to attend, as well as an engagement party, a rugby match and a boozy lunch were thrown in there as well. It's not because I'm popular, it's just how the dice was rolled this weekend.
So, I woke groggily on a brilliant winter's sunday and shrugged off my hangover. I threw the required toys into the car and pointed it to the beach. I peeled on my wetsuit, and felt the moist sand under my feet. The last remnants of my hangover sloughed off me as hit the chilly atlantic water.
It wasn't big. Maybe head high. Almost glassy and perfect little bowly peaks coming through. It was perfect for my fish. Most of the rest of the crew were on longbords, or some other funky and unconventional craft. There were good times all round.
Two whales floated just beyond the backline. They were close enough to see the sun glinting off their barnacles. I surfed for about 2 hours just getting the feeling back. It was great steering the twinny down the line.
I cruised back to the parking lot and swapped my little 5'9" for an 11'6" monster. A SUP. That's right. Apologies to all those who hate SUPs, but I reckon I did it right.
There's a lagoon that forms on the back of this beach during the winter as the water table rises. I paddled down it for about 3kms and felt quite alone for almost all of it. It was just me and the waders. Stilts, avocets, sandpipers, gulls and terns. A lone kestrel sat on a dune waiting for a opportunity to take out a careless bird. On one side are the dunes with more marshland behind it. On the other side, the white sands of the beach and the electric blue of the ocean. I stroked to the end of it where some dunes cut across the beach. I climbed them to check the waves and take in my surroundings. A warm breeze on the skin of my back and the lowering sun shimmering on the sea. Just the sound of the crashing waves, the clicking frogs in the reeds, the wind in the dune grass and the birds all around. Although there are houses on both ends of the beach, when you're in the middle, you feel quite isolated and remote. It's far enough from everything to feel wild.
There was a peak at bit further on with a couple guys on it. The surf had actually improved, being caressed by the gentle cross-offshore. In front of me was decent unsurfed peak with an ideal channel next to it. I carried the board over the beach and into the sea. Now it was just me and the waves.
I surfed that peak for a while, and then moved on up to the next one. I followed this pattern the whole way back up the beach. The wind helped me in travelling the distance, but was a pain when trying to catch a wave. Still, it was the day I had, I wouldn't have had it any other way.
I took me about an hour before I got to a peak that I had to share with one other surfer. Although I'm far from adept on the lumbering board there was space enough for both of us. I picked up a few before moving on to the next peak, also with it's sole occupant. By the time I reached a peak with a small crowd - like 5 guys - I was pretty poked, so I just cruised in and crossed the sand to the lagoon and stroked back up to the parking lot. I'm a beginner SUPer and I got to surf choice waves pretty much ace out. No hogging, no bad vibes, only being a kook in front of myself.
With burning arms I dropped the board back onto the bakkie, took off my boardies and wrapped a towel around me and fell exhausted into the driver's seat. It was a weekend. It was beautiful weather and fun waves. It was in a city. But I managed to surf, and then SUP virtually alone for most of the afternoon. It just takes a bit of imagination, and few extra clicks on the car.
It was a good day.
But, I can remember watching a cricket match a while back and the commentators were discussing a particular batsmen who hadn't performed to well recently. Various reasons were thrown around, before one pointed out that 'You're only one good innings away from finding form.' And that's what happened to me yesterday.
Sure, I had some pretty good waves on friday. But, my rustiness was detracting from my experience. Then, I spent the most of the rest of the weekend socialising. It was one of those weekends. I had 3 birthday parties to attend, as well as an engagement party, a rugby match and a boozy lunch were thrown in there as well. It's not because I'm popular, it's just how the dice was rolled this weekend.
So, I woke groggily on a brilliant winter's sunday and shrugged off my hangover. I threw the required toys into the car and pointed it to the beach. I peeled on my wetsuit, and felt the moist sand under my feet. The last remnants of my hangover sloughed off me as hit the chilly atlantic water.
It wasn't big. Maybe head high. Almost glassy and perfect little bowly peaks coming through. It was perfect for my fish. Most of the rest of the crew were on longbords, or some other funky and unconventional craft. There were good times all round.
Two whales floated just beyond the backline. They were close enough to see the sun glinting off their barnacles. I surfed for about 2 hours just getting the feeling back. It was great steering the twinny down the line.
I cruised back to the parking lot and swapped my little 5'9" for an 11'6" monster. A SUP. That's right. Apologies to all those who hate SUPs, but I reckon I did it right.
There's a lagoon that forms on the back of this beach during the winter as the water table rises. I paddled down it for about 3kms and felt quite alone for almost all of it. It was just me and the waders. Stilts, avocets, sandpipers, gulls and terns. A lone kestrel sat on a dune waiting for a opportunity to take out a careless bird. On one side are the dunes with more marshland behind it. On the other side, the white sands of the beach and the electric blue of the ocean. I stroked to the end of it where some dunes cut across the beach. I climbed them to check the waves and take in my surroundings. A warm breeze on the skin of my back and the lowering sun shimmering on the sea. Just the sound of the crashing waves, the clicking frogs in the reeds, the wind in the dune grass and the birds all around. Although there are houses on both ends of the beach, when you're in the middle, you feel quite isolated and remote. It's far enough from everything to feel wild.
There was a peak at bit further on with a couple guys on it. The surf had actually improved, being caressed by the gentle cross-offshore. In front of me was decent unsurfed peak with an ideal channel next to it. I carried the board over the beach and into the sea. Now it was just me and the waves.
I surfed that peak for a while, and then moved on up to the next one. I followed this pattern the whole way back up the beach. The wind helped me in travelling the distance, but was a pain when trying to catch a wave. Still, it was the day I had, I wouldn't have had it any other way.
I took me about an hour before I got to a peak that I had to share with one other surfer. Although I'm far from adept on the lumbering board there was space enough for both of us. I picked up a few before moving on to the next peak, also with it's sole occupant. By the time I reached a peak with a small crowd - like 5 guys - I was pretty poked, so I just cruised in and crossed the sand to the lagoon and stroked back up to the parking lot. I'm a beginner SUPer and I got to surf choice waves pretty much ace out. No hogging, no bad vibes, only being a kook in front of myself.
With burning arms I dropped the board back onto the bakkie, took off my boardies and wrapped a towel around me and fell exhausted into the driver's seat. It was a weekend. It was beautiful weather and fun waves. It was in a city. But I managed to surf, and then SUP virtually alone for most of the afternoon. It just takes a bit of imagination, and few extra clicks on the car.
It was a good day.
No comments:
Post a Comment