On the other hand, that's pretty cool in itself. Just an image and your imagination. Perhaps, that's how surfing should treat pictures of far off places. With stone cold silence. The only thing to say is: Have a look at this. And then it's up to you.
Make no mistake, even if we knew the who and the where, there's still plenty of mystery going on here. It's about a dragon, an orc, and an elf short of being the cover of a fantasy novel. The backwash fanfare seems too perfect, as does the soft lighting. But, as i've said before, moments like this tend to be fairly common when you just go looking for them. Get up early, stay out late and choose the path less trodden.
A few weeks ago and mate and were surfing a local beachy. It was sizey, and hollow, but really just closing out. And most of the region's surfers had pulled in for it. In hushed tones, we decided to laugh it off and check that reef out round the corner. Wetsuits still on the waist we rolled out of the parking lot and went to check it out. It was quite sketchy. Slabby, sectioning off and the hardest part was deciding to paddle out. Once that call was made, the next challenge was getting your head around the fact that the bigger ones were the better ones to go for. Another mate tracked us down and the three of us just carried on trading waves.
It had been a gloomy day, but the rain was passing and the late evening light started piercing through the clouds. The light bouncing off the water and shiny black kelp set a scene like the above, only a world apart. A dark grey cover which is then underlit and every wet surface sparlkes beneath it. The mountain slopes rising to create an emerald wall on one side and the dun sky and sea extending on the other side to infinity. The commaraderie of good friends. The sense of a living ocean around you.
It was a great moment. You had to be there. But, I'm glad you weren't. Now, go find your own.
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