After having a proper whinge things have been quite uplifting. There's almost always been a swell on the horizon and even when there hasn't we've pretty much been continuously wet and entertained. It's been an epic summer. The Boland really produced. Warm water meant that fullsuits were often too much. And that warm water only really happens when that Bane of the Boland - the South Easter doesn't blow. So the warm water is also a function of relative windlessness = double bonus.
Moments to cherish:
Finless fish session in tiny gutless, onshore surf.
Finned fish session at epic right bank, light offshore, warm water - badly shot video to prove it.
Overhead session with loose-as-hell fish. managed to hold a backhand barrel. very stoked on it.
Back to front take-off on longboard.
Sucky backhand session at local reef with just 2 mates. For a few hours, it felt like winter. I even had a bottle of OB's under the car seat for a post-session warm up, but the water and air temperature made it inappropriate. (Note: bottle still in place for next time.)
Medium-sized shark sighting.
Numerous sessions with dolphins.
Well overhead session at left point with longboards.
Epic tandem session with the lady.
GoPro moments - quite a few of them.
Kak moments:
Losing an H2 fin that's not mine. what's an H2? oh, only the most expensive fin in the FCS catalogue
Realising I'd forgotten my girlfriend's birthday in the surf abundance (since forgiven, bless her)
Arriving at the beach an hour too late - repetively.
Paddling out at a sketchy beachbreak and realising it's way, way too big for a fish with a sketchy fin set-up.
Rad times definitely outweighing to kak ones. I'm giving this one the thumbs up.
The garage turned into a rad social hub. Table tennis, ding repair, late night sessions just talking smack, browsing old surf mags. We didn't get round to shaping boards - just surfing and partying too much I guess.
Here's a few samples with the GoPro to set the year up. There's hopefully a lot more of this to come.
To all the waves, sandbanks, rips, reefs, marine life (living), marine life (now eaten), mates, beers, wines, shots, fires, aromas, sunshine, moody clouds, random bikini girls, songs, missions, alarm clock wake-ups and other unprintable stuff that made the summer what it was - a big thanks to all of you.
Moments to cherish:
Finless fish session in tiny gutless, onshore surf.
Finned fish session at epic right bank, light offshore, warm water - badly shot video to prove it.
Overhead session with loose-as-hell fish. managed to hold a backhand barrel. very stoked on it.
Back to front take-off on longboard.
Sucky backhand session at local reef with just 2 mates. For a few hours, it felt like winter. I even had a bottle of OB's under the car seat for a post-session warm up, but the water and air temperature made it inappropriate. (Note: bottle still in place for next time.)
Medium-sized shark sighting.
Numerous sessions with dolphins.
Well overhead session at left point with longboards.
Epic tandem session with the lady.
GoPro moments - quite a few of them.
Kak moments:
Losing an H2 fin that's not mine. what's an H2? oh, only the most expensive fin in the FCS catalogue
Realising I'd forgotten my girlfriend's birthday in the surf abundance (since forgiven, bless her)
Arriving at the beach an hour too late - repetively.
Paddling out at a sketchy beachbreak and realising it's way, way too big for a fish with a sketchy fin set-up.
Rad times definitely outweighing to kak ones. I'm giving this one the thumbs up.
The garage turned into a rad social hub. Table tennis, ding repair, late night sessions just talking smack, browsing old surf mags. We didn't get round to shaping boards - just surfing and partying too much I guess.
Here's a few samples with the GoPro to set the year up. There's hopefully a lot more of this to come.
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| unknown surfer, rad/weird perspective |
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| Chris Boustred, taking it in thechops |
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| Portrait of the executioner of Koeel Bay |
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| Jean Bester, and the reason I sponged for so long |
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