A while since the last one.
Thanks for checking in if you've been missing me. But then, why are you online now? It's summer - go live it like it wants you to.
I've been down at the cottage in Betties Bay for the last week or so, hence the silence. I spent the early part of the week tying up the loose ends of work, and getting the house in order. I've cleared all the rubbish out of the garage, put in a board rack, made a sort of lounge, dedicated a corner to all sorts of water toys, and left a space for shaping yokes. It's going to be epic. And there's a table tennis table amongst all this for when it gets too flat or two windy.
And there's been quite a bit of that and it looks like quite a bit to come as well. it's cool. there's plenty good times to be had. i've procured an alaia, and am relooking at my old bodyboards. what happened to stand-up bodyboarding? and how different is it to the fins free revolution going on at the moment? more to come on that front.
And then I came back to the real world today to sort out a few things. I was checking magic seaweed and found this. Dane Reynolds is walking away from the contest scene. it's a very honest, straight letter to you - yes, he's addressed it to everyone. I don't think i've ever criticised him in anything he's done. Such is my man-crush on the guy. But, he's level enough to recognise his flaws and put them down. I'm pleased that he's finding this path, even if he admits he doesn't know where it will lead.
What I'm most pleased about is he's part of the spread of surfing. I think for too long we've been focussed on the contest and results. Surfing became a sport, and the industry developed to support it. I see it, or at least part of it, returning to its artistic routes and Dane is one of the guys at the forefront of this development. I think now that he's free to focus all his energy and his mind to free surfing and riding 'fucked up boards' there will be a lot of interesting things to come in the future. I also reckon he's the type of guy to inspire people to follow his path. In the future there will be kids who will want to 'be like Dane', and not like Mick or Jordy or Parko. I'm one for sure. But, then as a near-thirty kook, I'm probably not going to be turning heads with progressive whack any time soon.
Remember, the raddest site on the web is still www.marinelayerproductions.com.
See you in 2012. It's going to be my best year surfing ever. How about you?
Thanks for checking in if you've been missing me. But then, why are you online now? It's summer - go live it like it wants you to.
I've been down at the cottage in Betties Bay for the last week or so, hence the silence. I spent the early part of the week tying up the loose ends of work, and getting the house in order. I've cleared all the rubbish out of the garage, put in a board rack, made a sort of lounge, dedicated a corner to all sorts of water toys, and left a space for shaping yokes. It's going to be epic. And there's a table tennis table amongst all this for when it gets too flat or two windy.
And there's been quite a bit of that and it looks like quite a bit to come as well. it's cool. there's plenty good times to be had. i've procured an alaia, and am relooking at my old bodyboards. what happened to stand-up bodyboarding? and how different is it to the fins free revolution going on at the moment? more to come on that front.
And then I came back to the real world today to sort out a few things. I was checking magic seaweed and found this. Dane Reynolds is walking away from the contest scene. it's a very honest, straight letter to you - yes, he's addressed it to everyone. I don't think i've ever criticised him in anything he's done. Such is my man-crush on the guy. But, he's level enough to recognise his flaws and put them down. I'm pleased that he's finding this path, even if he admits he doesn't know where it will lead.
What I'm most pleased about is he's part of the spread of surfing. I think for too long we've been focussed on the contest and results. Surfing became a sport, and the industry developed to support it. I see it, or at least part of it, returning to its artistic routes and Dane is one of the guys at the forefront of this development. I think now that he's free to focus all his energy and his mind to free surfing and riding 'fucked up boards' there will be a lot of interesting things to come in the future. I also reckon he's the type of guy to inspire people to follow his path. In the future there will be kids who will want to 'be like Dane', and not like Mick or Jordy or Parko. I'm one for sure. But, then as a near-thirty kook, I'm probably not going to be turning heads with progressive whack any time soon.
Remember, the raddest site on the web is still www.marinelayerproductions.com.
See you in 2012. It's going to be my best year surfing ever. How about you?
No comments:
Post a Comment