It's been quite frantic this last while. I can't remember the last time I took a day off. But, then, maybe that's because I don't know what an off day looks like anymore. I find myself desk bound on a saturday afternoon, but then tearing up the coast on a Monday morning. I'm kicking back on weekend night, sinking too many beers, and not enough pool balls. I'm scribbling notes on the side and trying to focus on the girl in the middle.
I've surfed cold lefts and hard rights. I've seen crowds and attitudes. I've floated alone and yearned to have someone share the water with. I've clocked around 3000kms in a just over week.
Opportunities have sprung from nowhere, others went from solid to vapour. It's a rollercoaster that ride without a ticket. There's no seat belt. You stay glued with your wits. There's no end to it, you get off anytime you feel like it.
So far I'm loving it. Two pics just to tease. More to come.
I've surfed cold lefts and hard rights. I've seen crowds and attitudes. I've floated alone and yearned to have someone share the water with. I've clocked around 3000kms in a just over week.
Opportunities have sprung from nowhere, others went from solid to vapour. It's a rollercoaster that ride without a ticket. There's no seat belt. You stay glued with your wits. There's no end to it, you get off anytime you feel like it.
So far I'm loving it. Two pics just to tease. More to come.
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