Wetting go

After flat spells, calling it wrong, committing to other shit, injuries, sickness, taking time to write long lists of excuses and generally just being kak, I've finally managed to get some wave time in.

A session last night, and a dawnie this morning.  Neither were grea by any shakes, but I'm just so glad to get wet again.

It's been written about before.  Here and other places.  Stoke comes down to attitude.  And the more wound up you get, the less stoked you get.  That's been my problem. 

So, yesterday, I stopped caring and paddled out at this local reef.  It was cross/onshore, some waves folding over themselves, other tempting you then fading.  In a word - messy.  And I had fun.  Just skipping across the beach, the crunch of the sand and the weight of the board under my arm felt great.  I went in with zero expectations.  I actually surprised myself in surfing quite well despite and extended semi-absence and poor current form.

This morning I opted for a beachy.  It was fat and sectiony.  I had a few shit waves.  I called it short.  I didn't care.  I had fun.  Not even getting stuck in traffic could kill my vibe.

Here's to letting go.

See you next week.