Wanting Winter

It's overcast outside now.  I'm wearing jeans, but i'm not bothering with shoes.  Some rain was predicted - just a bit of drizzle, but it might not happen.  And then from tomorrow, as far as the forecast shows, summer stretches out like barren plain.  The season of waiting.  Everyday like the day before.  No swell.  Strong South Easter in the morning.  Gale force in the afternoon.

I find myself wanting winter.  I have said before that surfing makes me love every season, and this is still true.  But, it's possible to love one more than another.  Yesterday I rose with the sun and suited up before walking the familiar path through the dunes.  The morning sand on the beach was still cool.  I could see tiny sharks through the clear water as they hunted crabs on the bank.  It was small, and lacking in power.  I surfed for 2 hours. It was fun.  I walked home, had a cold shower outside. I made a cup of coffee and still had a full working day.  You can't do that in winter.

 

But, I'm already yearning for short intense days.  Gun-metal skies and soupy seas.  When you wander the coast looking for waves.  Tyres splashing down muddy roads.  Putting on cold suits in the pre-dwan, and then taking it off after dusk.  Alone on the beach.  Fresh rain running off your hood, washing the salt from your face. 

Power, more than you can handle.  Being held down in the dark, and rising again to taste the chilled air, tainted with the rotten kelp ripped from the reef.  Clutching OB's in your craven hands and putting the sweetness to your crusted blue lips. 

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These pics come courteousy of Drew Innes, whose making a film on surfing in New England: The Winter Albatross.  I think it will be quite worthwhile.  And give us Captonians another reason to shut-up and take it.