you get that question from time to time. it's usually preceded by the statement: I want to learn to surf. Then the follow up is: But, is it difficult.
and I answer, and I think you would agree, that: Yes, it is difficult. But its worth it. I know its difficult, because after years of trying it, I'm still not very good. there's still a lot I do wrong. But, having said that, I'm a long way up the learning curve, but that curve stretches out before me and I still have much further to go. And every session presents challenges for me.
So, it's great to see someone who has presented with a challenge in everyday life, but still takes up the gauntlet of surfing and revels in it. I wrote a strory a while back about an old surfer who was blinded by cataracts, and the narrator would talk him through his own sessions. In it, I said that the 2 essentials in surfing are a wave and vision. I was wrong. Check this guy out.
That is inspiration to say the least. And you can't whine about conditions being unfavourable ever again.
and I answer, and I think you would agree, that: Yes, it is difficult. But its worth it. I know its difficult, because after years of trying it, I'm still not very good. there's still a lot I do wrong. But, having said that, I'm a long way up the learning curve, but that curve stretches out before me and I still have much further to go. And every session presents challenges for me.
So, it's great to see someone who has presented with a challenge in everyday life, but still takes up the gauntlet of surfing and revels in it. I wrote a strory a while back about an old surfer who was blinded by cataracts, and the narrator would talk him through his own sessions. In it, I said that the 2 essentials in surfing are a wave and vision. I was wrong. Check this guy out.
That is inspiration to say the least. And you can't whine about conditions being unfavourable ever again.
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