Ok. Look at Ry Craike over there and imagine his life about then. Ry surfs goofy, so I'm not sure how he got himself in that position. Maybe he took off switch foot. Maybe he did not. Any way, he's about to take it. Hard.
Anyway, ignore him. Just pretend he's not in the picture. Now look at the wave. Now look back. Imagine you on that wave. How sick would that be. Very sick. That much.
Now imagine you are Ry and you could be screaming down that face, but you're not. Instead you're just screaming. And you wish you weren't because you're going to need fully inflated lungs in the next few moments.
That's the fine line.
Pic by Andy Foxx from this guy.
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