I overheard someone say it this morning. It could have been in the parking lot, or the backline. I'm not really sure. But it rang true.
"Man, I love this time of year."
It is the best few weeks to be in the Cape. The windy summer is switching to the wet, windy winter and the autumn is made of calm, mild days with the occasional groundswell to just create that perfection that keeps you hoping the rest of the year.
I've had a few days like that already. I had to miss yesterday - too stiff from the weekend. Bummer. But, I made up for it today with a barrel feast like I've seldom gorged myself on. A favourite beach break. Multiple peaks. And a thin crowd spread between them. Waves for everyone. Stoke on toast. On each paddle out, guys were just getting slotted. I've never so many smiles in a line up. Man, it's a good time to be alive, outside and wet.
I got a few great cover ups. I didnt make it out of any. But, that would have just been the cherry. I got pretty deep in a few. I got clipped across the head more often than not, too. I surfed until I couldn't push myself to my feet. I've never had club foot so bad. Walking on the beach felt like walking on a lilo, I was so unstable. I had so little energy, that even wearing a full suit in the sun, my body struggled to warm itself.
It was a good day. And there's so many more to come over the next few weeks.
"Man, I love this time of year."
It is the best few weeks to be in the Cape. The windy summer is switching to the wet, windy winter and the autumn is made of calm, mild days with the occasional groundswell to just create that perfection that keeps you hoping the rest of the year.
I've had a few days like that already. I had to miss yesterday - too stiff from the weekend. Bummer. But, I made up for it today with a barrel feast like I've seldom gorged myself on. A favourite beach break. Multiple peaks. And a thin crowd spread between them. Waves for everyone. Stoke on toast. On each paddle out, guys were just getting slotted. I've never so many smiles in a line up. Man, it's a good time to be alive, outside and wet.
I got a few great cover ups. I didnt make it out of any. But, that would have just been the cherry. I got pretty deep in a few. I got clipped across the head more often than not, too. I surfed until I couldn't push myself to my feet. I've never had club foot so bad. Walking on the beach felt like walking on a lilo, I was so unstable. I had so little energy, that even wearing a full suit in the sun, my body struggled to warm itself.
It was a good day. And there's so many more to come over the next few weeks.
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| Picture by Nic Bothma |
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