On timing

One of the greatest things about surfing is the sheer split between timing it just right, and timing it completely wrong.  And when dealing with a fluid environment you can never be too sure, and nothing is waiting for you to decide.  The arrival of the next set is always an unknown element.  It's critic decision making with limited information and immediate deadlines in an uncontrolled environment.  They should teach surfing at business school.  Not, that I'm a soldier, but I imagine it to be similar to making decisions on a battlefield, obviously with far fewer consquences.

There's a wave that's been mentioned here before which is well known to have a hell paddle.  The first time I surfed it at decent size, I was standing on the jump off rock, legs vibrating with adrenaline and looking for a que that I had no idea how to recognise.  Another guy strolled past me, and without a glance at the horizon, vaulted into the swirling channel and went for it.  Ok, if that's how it's done, I thought.  Then I, thought for a moment longer just to get my nerve up and lept in.

That extra moment of doubt turned out to be my saving grace.  The other guy probably had about 10 seconds on me and  was at the entrance of the channel when a set loomed large.  I was still in it and had a good few duck dives - not easy on a 7'6" - but by the time the waves hit me, they'd lost most of their power.  On surfacing each time, I just made sure I had enough distance between myself and the rocks on either side.  My unwitting guide took the whole set on the head.  On about the 3 wave, I saw him being washed over the jagged shelf to the right of the channel.  I didn't see him again.  The set ended and all the water packed in the channel sucked me out cleanly.  The next guy to make it to the backline told me he'd just limped home taking his torn board with him. 

Timing...

Ja, looking cool now, aren't we.

That's not the wave being discussed. But, when this guy is done posing, he's got a lot else on his mind.  He can hail mary it.  Or he can calculate.  Either approach works.  Sometimes.  Sometimes the mixed approach works.  Other times it does not.  And those big names have an uncanny ability to get it right more often than not.  I suppose experience goes a long way.

pic via Natural Art's FB page.  No idea who the original credit goes to.