Easter kegs, and other highlights

gloom, storms, and stoke

Starting last week Thursday and ending yesterday, I don't think I've surfed so hard since my last trip to Indo - and that was five years ago.  Three days with two sessions, and the single session days the last two as our bodies caved in.  We clocked up a lot of water time.

Without dragging out all the details, here is the highlights package:

New wetsuit:  splurged out and bought myself an Excel Infiniti Drylock.  This purchase is about a year overdue.  I used my old suit till it is fucked, then went back to an even older suit, till it was fucked, then came back to the first suit till it was really, really fucked.  it looks like it's been left out in the yard for the dog to chew.  The new one cost a prett penny, but if you're in Cape Town, and surf the Atlantic, I recommend spending top dollar on a proper suit.  More water time, better performance - it all adds up to better surfing.  If you sit still for a bit, it gets piss-warm inside - even if you aren't pissing on yourself.  I bought mine from Lifestyle down in Muizenberg.  They have a good range and good crew to help you make the right choice.

Big shut down barrel at a nearby beachy:  My backhand late drops are fine.  My frontside, not so much.  So I was very stoked to lock in to a set wave a thread it till it shut down hard into the sand bank.  Next time: spat out on similar wave.

Returning to an old reef:  I used to surf this ledgy right back in my bodyboarding days.  I haven't had the nuts to go back since I started standing up.  I was good to give it a go and do quite well.  We arrived on the pushing tide and it was a bit high for the spot, but it meant the crew of spongers was leaving and left only four of us stand-ups in the water.  We traded waves and had a good banter until it switched off entirely.  Not the most epic session, but easily the best vibe.

Suiting up and paddling out in the driving rain:  Life is just better in a wetsuit.  When you're soaked through in the parking lot and it's raining so hard at the backline you can't make out the contours on the approaching set.  It's a special feeling reserved for surfers and a few other outdoor persuits.  I took a moment to reflect on the fluffy summer days we spent at the same spot and the different nature of it in a winter storm.

Being the last out:  Waiting for a wave in at dusk, and still waiting for that wave on dark.  Just me and Rob and the approaching night.  Eventually calling the next one as a family wave and getting a close up perspective of the shadow of your pal gliding across the wall.  Desuiting in the abandoned parking lot, and necking OBs while still fully suited, the drizzle washing the salt on your lips into the sweet sherry.  I've been waiting a long time for that.

Riding a fish at size:  Taking my 5'9" wafer-fish into some serious surf and actually doing OK.  I really need to buy keel fins for it, but the twin set up with Sca 5's worked - sort of.  I managed a few late drops and locked into a mega barrel with it on the local beachy.  Yesterday, I surfed it a point - a wave that's ideal for a fish, once you've made the take-off.  It's something I've wanted to do for a while and finally had the confidence for it.  I did alright, and the photos are from the session.  It's quite a feeling putting your biggest leash on your smallest board.  The photos are from that session.

lining up for a barrel that wouldn't come

Solo session:  The other reason I was amped to take the fish out was that there were no other takers that day.  Just me and a pod of dolphins.  Rob's shoulder had packed in so he was on camera duty.  Not perfect waves, but so much fun challenging them a board too small, and fins too few.

The feeling of being surfed out:  We had a braai on Friday night and had a few drinks on Saturday, including the OB's.  Apart from that it was a really dry weekend as far as boozing goes.  Every night we eased tired lmbs into bed early, and every mornning stiff bodies would get crowbarred out, down some coffee and a shake, and slide into a still damp, chilly wetsuit.  The stuff of dreams, really.