There was a lot of this sort of thing happening over the last few days. Shifty beach breaks. A short period swell with scattered peaks. Currents and winds carrying you quietly. Trying to line up a moving target.
So, often we would sit and watch a peak slide past unridden. It reaches that tipping point slowly, silently, but beyond that the pace of change comes with a crash. We'd gaze over our shoulders and curse a foregone wave before projecting overselves into that space and watching idea of ourselves surf an untainted wave. Fleeting moments passing only in our minds. The imagined fantasy of what we would be like if we could see the future and make our present from it. Then, just like that wave gone by, we return to the reality, and make it happen for ourselves in substance.
Pic by Ed Sloane, via grindtv
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