Monday, April 2, 2012

It's good for you: Over the falls

1st in a new series of those unpleasant experiences that make you a better person.

I got pitched on Friday.  Not quite like this guy, but it was solid one.

via these guys.  Not sure who that is, but the wave has to be Chopes
It's a dredging left nearby.  It's been called the cold water Bingin, but it's a bit meatier, and not nearly as clean.  There's a tight local crew as well, so I couldn't believe my luck when I showed up to big 4-5 sets pulling through with only one other guy suiting up for an empty line-up.  The swell was a bit messy, but that was pretty much the only thing wrong with it.  I snagged a few good ones.  I stacked a few late drops, but managed to stick two very rude ones a got nice pits for my efforts.  I also got worked over, properly.

I'd made the first section, and was lining up for the second one which was looking to pitch.  I went high to come back down with speed.  I'm not sure if it was the wave or my foot placing, but I stayed high, watched the trough suck out and the lip curl out under my feet and got flung.  I managed to twist mid air and landed on my back and was waiting for hardness below to meet me.  It didn't happen amazingly.  Somehow, my back fin managed to poke me on my hip and then my board spun on its axis and it tore a new hole in suit.  Not that you would notice, unless you know the holes in it as well as I do.  I surfaced and the board was still poking me as it forced itself up into my hip - a bit too close to my nuts for comfort.  I got off lightly I reckon.  And, I paid a few more dues in doing so.  A few waves later I managed to set a clean rail in a bomb and got flung out clean the other side.  It's all worth it.

Happy 4/5s of a Monday, folks.  Another short week followed by an equally long weekend.  And there's plenty going on:  Bells contest kicks off tomorrow, and then it's Easter.  And have you seen the forecast?  Hells yes!  It's going to crank.  Not sure how much i'll be updating this over the next while but when i manage there will hopefully be tales of daring do, savage beatings, hell sets and perhaps even a request for replacment boards.

Roll on winter!

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