One of my first published works tried to capture the colours that we see when we surf. I think I did an adequate job. But, as I tried to convey in the piece, there's nothing like actually being there. There's something about being so close to the water - a semi transparent surface - and the fact that we're out there in all conditions and chasing it through all coastal orientations and latitudes that make every moment of every session unique. Like you'll never step in the same river twice, you will never see the same moment again when surfing. Time on the water is a kaleidoscope - a complex and dynamic arrangement of light that cannot be reproduced.
Photography means 'light writing' so its only fitting that they capture these moments better than these monochrome letters ever could. As much as surf photography is about shooting surfers, photographers know that there is so much more going on around them than just waves being ridden. As surfers, we recognise moments like this from our own experience. We hark back to those points in time. Perhaps, this is one aspect of that expression: Only a surfer knows the feeling.
Via 6 feet and perfect
Photography means 'light writing' so its only fitting that they capture these moments better than these monochrome letters ever could. As much as surf photography is about shooting surfers, photographers know that there is so much more going on around them than just waves being ridden. As surfers, we recognise moments like this from our own experience. We hark back to those points in time. Perhaps, this is one aspect of that expression: Only a surfer knows the feeling.
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| Heaven Waits, by Matt Clark |
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