We called it wrong this morning. We drove an hour in the wrong direction only to turn tail and sit in commuter traffic back through town. It was kak, and some people do it every day. Rob described it as having your soul eaten out from you - one teaspoon at a time. One rusted teaspoon with a jagged edge and some of that miff hardened, old food that the dishwasher can't get off. So to cut a long story and drive short, we turned up at Llandudno - a not too bad beachy with a rep for heavy barrels and locals. The locals were all at work, but there were a few barrels to be had. If you could get in them. There was a such a current sucking up the face, that unless you got the first wave of the set, it was near impossible. Air-drops were almost mandatory. A very challengin surf, and as I said afterwards, without making it onto the face of a single wave, certainly my least successful surf in a long time. I would sulk, but hey, I was surfing, so I won't.
Did I mention how cold the water was? It was very cold. Have I mentioned that I don't have booties at the moment? I have, haven't I... Anyway, its very kak not having booties at Llandudno.
Did I mention the film shoot on the beach? There was a film shoot on the beach. There was a hot chick in a red bikini shooting an advert or something stupid. She was probably the highlight of my session. But, the cool thing was, partly because of her hotness, and partly because of someone's wasteful marketing budget, there at least 40 other people enjoying being on the beach this morning - AND getting paid for it.
The other people getting paid for being on the beach were Llandudno's team of gardeners and their owners' dogs. Cape Town housewife: "Philemon! Walk the dog! He wants to have his foofie now and I'm having a cup of tea!" Still, getting paid to be on the beach - not bad.
Shot to Matt Slater for the pic. And I will start taking my own pics soon - my camera is stuffed after being owned by me (in a literal, and a more emphatic, slangy sort of way) and mom has been preoccupied with hers on a photography course - but that means upgrade for her...and then for me by extention! Shot mom! if you've worked out how to read this.
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| I was mostly on the wrong side of the lip. |
Did I mention the film shoot on the beach? There was a film shoot on the beach. There was a hot chick in a red bikini shooting an advert or something stupid. She was probably the highlight of my session. But, the cool thing was, partly because of her hotness, and partly because of someone's wasteful marketing budget, there at least 40 other people enjoying being on the beach this morning - AND getting paid for it.
The other people getting paid for being on the beach were Llandudno's team of gardeners and their owners' dogs. Cape Town housewife: "Philemon! Walk the dog! He wants to have his foofie now and I'm having a cup of tea!" Still, getting paid to be on the beach - not bad.
Shot to Matt Slater for the pic. And I will start taking my own pics soon - my camera is stuffed after being owned by me (in a literal, and a more emphatic, slangy sort of way) and mom has been preoccupied with hers on a photography course - but that means upgrade for her...and then for me by extention! Shot mom! if you've worked out how to read this.
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