What you see when you surf is key. This is most apparent by the way we always strive for a better vantage. You can't wait to go round the next bend in the road. When riding shotgun, you push yourself out of your seat and press your head to the ceiling to get a view of the waves breaking down below. Think Hoek, or Caves. There's the sprint over the dunes. And of course, raising your body up as the swell comes to you to see what lies beyond. With a dynamic sea to play in and a world of explorable coastlines, there's so much mystery to be enjoyed. It may be what the waves are going to be like at your local that day, or how a new line-up looks for the first time as you break the last crest and lay your eyes on the sets for the first time. It could be the view from the backline back at the coast - a perspective few but us surfers get.
This is one such view. I like because it holds that mystery in it. It's got that exotic quality to it that we're always searching for. And in the half-light of dusk, who knows what else is hidden in shadows.
Pic by Dennis Kirkland via
This is one such view. I like because it holds that mystery in it. It's got that exotic quality to it that we're always searching for. And in the half-light of dusk, who knows what else is hidden in shadows.
Pic by Dennis Kirkland via
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