Ok - so its been almost 2 years since I laid down this blog and never got it off the ground properly. So let's do that again. More success this time, lets hope.
Let's just say it's been an epic winter - august cooked and I got to surf some epic waves up and down the coast. I haven't left the Cape to surf in four years now (OK, if did have a session in Ireland about 3 years ago) and I've been surfing some of the best waves of my life. I've also notched up a few virgin sessions recently at some very good spots. Just goes to show what's out there if you take the time to saddle up and go. We did a head count of new waves surfed and I forget the tally, but it was in double figures.
My most memorable wave recently was a front hand barrel at one of favourite local beaches. (I'm going to keep names to a minimum on this page.) It was a late drop, a stall into the pocket before bursting out on to the shoulder a few seconds later. I caught 4 waves that entire session - the other 3 were crap, and then I snapped my board. I didn't care. Nothing could take away the pleasure of coming out cleanly on that pit. So stoked. It was weeks ago and I still get stoked thinking about.
The bad news about me is i'm battling a recurring shoulder injury. But this blog isn't about me, or it shouldn't be at least. We'll keep narcissism to a minimum here. This blog is about being stoked on surfing. I'm going to do my best to keep that stoke flowing like that rip out the corner which gets to the backline with dry hair. Yeah, like that stoked.
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