I sometimes have the pleasure of telling someone I'm going surfing while there's an furious storm raging outside. I'm met with a stare of blank incomprehension. "You surf in the winter?" Yeah, it's the best time. More incomprehension. Shame, I shouldn't take pleasure in their ignorance, and I think we have popular media to blame for it. Maybe that's changing though.
I think for a lot of people surfing is a beach activity - up there with beachbats, and volleyball. I'm not mocking either of those, but they're a distraction from lying on a towel tempting a melanoma. A surf to them is a swim, with an accessory. Possibly with strains of the beach boys in the background. Pfft.
One of the things I love the most about surfing is it encourages me to be outdoors in all weather. If there's waves - go. If it's early - go. If it's late - go quickly. If it's stormy - go warmly. If it's hot - go in boardies. Just go, bru.
Here's a pic conveying on of those moods. It's cold and lonely. But I'd trade places with that guy if he let me. His mates couldn't make it, so he went. You know he's about to go and have a few. It's not epic, but he's about to tap into some stoke. And that's something he can get no matter the time of year.
Picture from 6 feet and perfect. The name itself warrents being checked out.
I think for a lot of people surfing is a beach activity - up there with beachbats, and volleyball. I'm not mocking either of those, but they're a distraction from lying on a towel tempting a melanoma. A surf to them is a swim, with an accessory. Possibly with strains of the beach boys in the background. Pfft.
One of the things I love the most about surfing is it encourages me to be outdoors in all weather. If there's waves - go. If it's early - go. If it's late - go quickly. If it's stormy - go warmly. If it's hot - go in boardies. Just go, bru.
Here's a pic conveying on of those moods. It's cold and lonely. But I'd trade places with that guy if he let me. His mates couldn't make it, so he went. You know he's about to go and have a few. It's not epic, but he's about to tap into some stoke. And that's something he can get no matter the time of year.
"Soledad, by Jaider Lozano |
Picture from 6 feet and perfect. The name itself warrents being checked out.
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