That moment when you know you're not going to make it. And your only thought is: How bad is this going to be?
Flea, practising his warm water pin drop at not-small Waimeia. I'm sure he's no stranger to amazing beatings, having surfed Mavs for most of his life. But a beating is still a beating.
As envious as we may be of the hellmen, we must remember that it's not all big drops into perfectly arced hi speed bottom turns. there's a lot of pain involved. The road to big wave stardom is paved with near drowning experiences. that's why you've to really want. Flea - even in that moment up there - really wants it.
Pic from here. Image by Jeremiah Klein.
As envious as we may be of the hellmen, we must remember that it's not all big drops into perfectly arced hi speed bottom turns. there's a lot of pain involved. The road to big wave stardom is paved with near drowning experiences. that's why you've to really want. Flea - even in that moment up there - really wants it.
Pic from here. Image by Jeremiah Klein.
Madness. I get freaked out by much, much smaller drops.
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