sjoh - busy day not surfing.
So this post is that late late drop that you stick in the pocket you still can't work out how. It's a last wave on the hooter to clinch the heat - well done Travis! It's the last spot that you check and against all judgement, it's firing. It's rocking up at the bottle store after an epic session and slipping in as they close the door. It's the last space at the front of the parking lot giving a panoramic of the beach from the comfort of your cabby. It's that only pair of boardies on sale that you dig, and it's your size. It's the lonely beer in the otherwise empty fridge. I could go on.
Actually, I can't.
Cool like the girls at school, walking single file, hands behind your back, neatly down the line. We only wish we could be that casual in the barrel.
Source: Surfermag
So this post is that late late drop that you stick in the pocket you still can't work out how. It's a last wave on the hooter to clinch the heat - well done Travis! It's the last spot that you check and against all judgement, it's firing. It's rocking up at the bottle store after an epic session and slipping in as they close the door. It's the last space at the front of the parking lot giving a panoramic of the beach from the comfort of your cabby. It's that only pair of boardies on sale that you dig, and it's your size. It's the lonely beer in the otherwise empty fridge. I could go on.
Actually, I can't.
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| surfer: Alex Gray, Photographer: Bryce Lowe-White |
Source: Surfermag
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