The back hand barrel. The pig-dog tube ride. Is there anything sweeter? To anyone whose ever pulled their rail with one hand and stroked the wall with palm of his other you know the feeling. That back knee straining with pressure on the inside of your leg.
I can only imagine what it's like at pipe - the ultimate arena. I can imagine the frantic jostling with the pack. The surge as the swell lifts you. The realisation that it's your wave. The real realisation that this is your wave - to make or fail. Then the solitude. The plunge. The grab. The line. Then it's up to you. Spat out into the channel? Or ground up on the reef?
Photographer Zak Noyle, and pic thanks to Surfer Mag.
I can only imagine what it's like at pipe - the ultimate arena. I can imagine the frantic jostling with the pack. The surge as the swell lifts you. The realisation that it's your wave. The real realisation that this is your wave - to make or fail. Then the solitude. The plunge. The grab. The line. Then it's up to you. Spat out into the channel? Or ground up on the reef?
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| Josh Kerr, feeling it |
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